Delectable kebabs, aromatic biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a food lovers' paradise, with locals and visitors equally celebrating its superb cuisine.
A Global Honor
In a recent announcement, UNESCO recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – adding it to a exclusive roster of world cities and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this status, it becomes part of a global network of more than four hundred urban centers across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".
The recognition "stands as proof of its deep-rooted culinary traditions and dynamic food ecosystem," as stated by a spokesperson from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to find a place in this coveted list of seventy urban centers internationally.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The honor for this venerable city arrives as little surprise to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many agree with the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO recognition, this adored, chaotic, and eclectic city – the capital of India's most populous state – is finally in the spotlight for what has always characterized its soul: an unparalleled passion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how should it be prepared' is a continued dialogue from waking up until going to bed in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually judged by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its historic opulent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and raised to exquisite levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were epicenters of gastronomic creativity, fusing Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were developed. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was devised to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs ground the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Apart from the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only highlights seasonal produce but also gives the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Almost on many street corners, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – lesser-known treasures that are immensely loved by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in earthenware cups, along with incredibly soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can head to a simple joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also presents special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The method of making it is intricate and complicated. The vendor whisks the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but note that their younger generation do not want to take up the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's profound food legacy positions it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is believed, will inspire more people globally to discover these narratives and travel to the city to savour the food wonders of Lucknow.
